At a time when so many Bristol openings centre are offering ‘small plates’, a hospitality concept where the entire menu – brunch, lunch and dinner- revolves around cheese is enough to make me weak at the knees.
The clue really is in the name for recently opened The Cheese Platter. The speciality restaurant on Redland Hill is a cheese lover’s utopia where most dishes incorporate the dairy delight in some way, with diners even able to customise with their meals according to their favourite cheese variety.
It was an idea years in the making for owner Joshua Doyle who strives to “forge meaningful connections with not just local cheese manufacturers, but also breweries, distilleries, vineyards and cider mills”.
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Doyle opened this relaxed, yet innovative, restaurant in November within the site that was previously home to a maternity hospital. It is the resident restaurant of a collection of later-living apartments called The Vincent within the restored Queen Victoria House, but also, and luckily for everyone, open to the public.
The starter prompts the childlike joy of eating fishcakes on a Friday night
Inside the restaurant, it is as elegant as its Victorian surroundings but, equally, unstated with minimal furnishings and chairs upholstered in studded leather the colour autumn leaves. The impeccably clean kitchen is exposed so diners can feast their eyes on the creation of their cheesy wonders.
We begin sharing smoked haddock and applewood croquettes with watercress and homemade tartar sauce (£8.50).
Shaped in perfect little rounds, the fish is in thick chunks and sauce is beautifully tart and herbaceous with nuggets of capers, the applewood’s flavour offering a teaser of cheesy things to come.
For balance we ordered a rocket salad (£5) but, to our delight, it came with slices of Italian hard cheese
For mains, while…
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